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For centuries, clothing has been a medium of self-expression and gender distinction. Whether using color, silhouette, or style, designers have used their creations to indicate a person’s gender identity. In recent years, gender ambiguity in fashion seems to be more popular than ever; however, this is not a new trend. Androgynous clothing has been around for centuries, perhaps in varying forms, but present, nonetheless. Below is a brief history of the intersectionality between clothing & gender in the past centuries.
Ancient cultures: Clothing was not strongly gendered; men and women wore similar garments. Occasionally, the color, decoration, or length of the garment would be used to distinguish gender. For example, men’s clothing would stop mid-calf or just below the knee, and women’s clothes always covered the ankles. Clothing was primarily for practical reasons rather than self-expression.
Middle Ages: Gender-specific clothing begins to emerge depending on the region. Some distinctions were minimal, but as class distinctions and social hierarchies came to power, gender division in fashion became more distinct.
Renaissance: During this time, the lines between gendered clothing were not as rigid. Men and women alike wore highly decorated garments, tights, and skirts. Due to the general air of the Renaissance, expression through fashion was still fluid. Though fashion was similar, there were “men’s” and “women’s” styles at this time.
Rococo & Victorian Eras: Gender distinctions became more pronounced at this time, specifically in elite groups. Women were confined to dresses, large skirts, and corsets. Men, on the other hand, wore suits, trousers, and waistcoats.
Early-Mid 1900s: Throughout the First World War, women’s clothing became more practical for work. Though gendered fashion remained dominant, women moved towards breaking standard gender norms. Flappers in the 1920s & designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier pushed gender norms out of society’s comfort zone. Gaultier specifically featured men in corsets and lace skirts in the 80’s, and women smoking pipes. Additionally, he included transgender models in his 1980’s runway shows to show a “different kind of beauty”.
Late 1900s: The 1970s showed an interest in exploring non-gendered clothing. YSL created women’s tuxedos in 1966, and punk cultures increased rejection of gender norms. In the 1990s, unisex clothing hit the fashion mainstream through streetwear trends. This includes baggy jeans and t-shirts, as well as a craze for unique athletic shoes and baseball caps.
2000s-Today: Androgynous looks become mainstream with high-profile celebrities taking part in the trends. Challenging gender norms has become more popular than ever, and many fashion houses are embracing gender-neutral collections. This spotlight on androgyny creates safe spaces for non-binary individuals in the fashion world while breaking fashion barriers of the past.
The rise in gender ambiguity has not only given individuals the freedom to express themselves, it has also broadened the scope of fashion further than what it once was. The way trends are pointing; we seem to be entering another fashion Renaissance. The rise of men’s skirts, dresses, and accessories paired with women’s turn to masculinity will lead to increasingly androgynous trends and exploration of fashion. Trends of gender ambiguity do not just pop out of thin air. These trends come from years of people of color, queer, and transgender artists pushing the boundaries of what is “socially acceptable” in a society that looks down on them. Properly respecting those who paved the way for these trends to occur is just as important, if not more important, than praising a designer’s work.
As a transgender man, the ties between gender and fashion are astonishing to me. I love treading the lines of masculine & feminine fashion and developing a unique aesthetic. Fashion is one of the best ways to communicate to the world how you see yourself. I personally lean towards the “model off duty” look because that’s what piques my interest. I cannot stress enough the importance of finding what works for you and developing your own aesthetic around it. Once you find what makes you confident, your closet will feel like Narnia; full of endless possibilities. When developing an aesthetic, I always suggest experimenting with gender roles and pushing boundaries. There is an entire world of opportunity in each article of clothing. Use your imagination and make gender roles your b*tch!